![]() The label directions should specify what you are using. Since heavily grained wood - such as oak - absorbs stain unevenly, it’s a good idea to first apply a “clear sealer.” Some stains are “self-sealing” and, thus, don’t require sanding sealer. Allow the stain to soak in overnight before applying the first coat of polyurethane. Apply the stain as evenly as possible being careful to remove any excess. Wipe on the stain using a soft, clean cloth. If you will be staining your object, now is the time to apply the stain. Use a vacuum cleaner with an upholstery brush along with a tack cloth to remove all of the sanding dust and wipe the surface with a clean cloth dampened with denatured alcohol. Sand the surface with progressively finer paper – beginning with medium (100-grit) sandpaper, then 150-grit and finish with 220-grit. Begin by making sure that the surface is clean, dry and smooth. With a little patience and the right tools and materials, you too can have professional-looking results. You don’t have to be a pro to have a finish that looks like glass. However, it too will require regular upkeep. Spar Varnish is a tougher, more durable finish that will hold up better to prolonged exposure to sunlight and water. A better bet for an exterior door (or other exterior objects that might be appropriate for a hard finish) is a Marine Spar Varnish. Polyurethane can be used successfully to finish an exterior door provided that it has reasonable protection from the elements. A penetrating oil finish (clear or a pigmented stain) is a better choice for exterior use. When exposed to lots of sunlight, a clear finish will crack, bubble up and rapidly deteriorate. We are often asked if polyurethane can be used on exterior surfaces such as siding, decking, and patio furniture. Although there are water-base urethanes, we are a bit old-fashioned and prefer oil-base polyurethane because of the way it flows and the super hard finish that it achieves. ![]() Essentially an oil-base paint without pigment, polyurethane is an extremely durable clear plastic finish that is great for bar tops, tabletops, doors, hardwood flooring, etc. Our favorite clear finish is oil-base polyurethane. ![]() It is also highly flammable – it should never be applied in the presence of an open flame – including a pilot light. Shellac is fast drying, but it is fragile and has a tendency to yellow in sunlight. More recently, shellac – made from the shells or small scale insects dissolved in alcohol – was popular as an interior wood finish. Nordic seamen used boiled linseed oil as a coating to protect their ships and longboats. Thus, if the object will be exposed to water from time to time, go for a clear finish. Keep in mind that wood and water don’t mix. On the other hand, an old oak table that is used primarily for daily dining will last longer, look better and be easier to keep clean with a hard clear finish. The oil stain will feed the wood fibers – keeping them moist and supple. For example, antique cherry rocker will look stunning (and last ions) with a hand rubbed oil stain. The decision to one or the other rests primarily with the desired look and how the object will be used. That’s not to suggest that they can’t be stained – they can. In fact, most natural woodwork jobs call for one or more topcoats of a clear finish. What do an oak door, a walnut mantle, and a cherry rocker have in common? Aside from the fact that each is constructed of natural wood, they all look especially good with a clear finish.
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